#Sanyo GVR-S950
10 messages in this thread
I assume that there are a few Sanyo owners out there.
Have any of you had problems with drop-outs?
Any info or sanyo pointers would be great.
Wes
Wesly,
The Toaster Troubleshooter section is pretty decent in the manual, pay close
attention to it. Especially the part about not having the Colorbars in the
frame buffers when you start single-framing. Also, when playing framestores
already rendered, 12 seconds delay seems like the magic number for my set-up.
Since the Toaster doesn't communicate both ways with the Sanyo, if your delay
is too little, you'll end up recording a frame that is in transition or black.
Later, Jim
Jim
As you know from the other topic (software failure) I have been looking all
over for a solution to this situation. I have not tried the new string for the
controller, yet. I did talk to the local rep and he opened up a new area of
concern…..
could a drop-out cause my sanyo to send an error message that crashes my
system? I had one possible problem spot on the tape, but I could use the
controller to do a stil at that frame – so the time code should be ok right?
What is the best way to avoid drop-outs. I think I'm using good tape. It is
blank before I stripe the code. I don't really want to watch my amiga spit out
0's, +'s & ,'s for two hours. What other way is there to check for drop-outs –
on the tape and in the code?
Wes
Wes,
If you issue the TALK2 command, your Sanyo won't reply ANYTHING! which is
exactly what the Toaster wants since it is incapable of interacting anyway.
Kind of a Pain, methinks.
On Dropouts, Get the Best Tape available and cross your fingers. Again,
unless your rending times are REAL short, render to framestores and single
these to tape. You can then check to be sure it's okay by watching it. If it's
not, you can re-single frame them without the lenghthy rendering process.
Later, jim
I read a great tip… make sure you stripe (w/Bars) then rewind all your
tape before single framing… this will pre-dropout any loose magnetic
particles on the tape.
Aki,
Even before striping, it's a good idea to fast forward and rewind the tape to
help preclude striping with dropouts caused by loose particles on the tape…
Jerry
Do you stripe with ColorBars? I stripe Black with Timecode. Isn't there a
possibility of residual colorbar stuff remainging on the tape if you firsrt
record IT before single framing? Or it probably doesn't matter.
Later, jim
I hope there isn't a difference in frames I've recorded over the bars… I
just put them on 'cause I can tell where I haven't recorded yet.. as far
as dropouts it shouldn't matter. Now I'm probably gonna worry about those
bars and stripe with black…
I had terrible problems with residual noise from colorbars. When I switched to
striping with black burst output all the problems( and funnily enough a bunch
of jitter) disappeared.
SK.
>>Have any of you had problems with drop-outs?<<
No. Except for one time I tried rendering to tape – the 3-6 minute render time
(with the deck paused) must've been a bad idea.
>>Any info or sanyo pointers would be great.<<
I get the best S-VHS tape I can find, in 30 minute versions. Less reel inertia
on the drive.
I stripe the whole thing at once, with black.
I dump frames in one big group.
So far, so good!
Jim