Siding Removal?
3 messages in this thread
I have a question about siding and insulation.
My wife and I just bought an older home in south central Wisconsin (on the edge
between Zone 4 and 5.) The original structure was built in 1848, they tell us,
but it's been revamped several times.
As far as we can tell, the wall construction is the balloon frame of the
larger-than-4×4 timbers, a layer of tar paper, 3 inch clapboards, more tar
paper, then 10 inch (cedar) clapboards. No insulation in the air space, it
looks into the plaster-over-lathe walls. We don't want to re-paint (and
re-paint and re-paint) so we're planning on vinyl siding.
My question: Is there any advantage to removing both layers of old siding
before we re-side? Yes, it would cost more to have it all removed. 🙂 Next,
with the siding ripped off, it might be easier to re-wire all that old
two-conductor cloth-wrapped electrical wiring. It might be easier to insulate,
too, and easy access to the frame might make that job easier or offer more
alternatives than blow-in insulation. We could wrap the house in Tyvek
moisture barrier, then add foam insulation and the new siding.
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It sounds like you have a post and beam construction. I have a similar home
which had aluminum siding installed aprox 1975-1976. The original siding was
left in place and a layer of foam was placed under the siding.
Later as time permitted each apartment had the external walls inssulated from
the inside. The plaster lath walls were demoed and fiberglass insulation placed
in the cavity. Dry wall was used to fininsh and subsequently wall papered.
My grandfather originally remodeled the house in the early to mid 30's I
believe. The wiring is still in good shape. He used a BX cable which has a
metal sheath wrapping the two wire conductors inside.
In your situation that would be the ideal time to rewire and add
telephone,alarm and cable service.
I would not remove the sheathing as that provides the structure with rigidity
and keeps the beams from racking. Usually there is a layer of boards mounted at
an angle for just this purpose. As long as these boards are sound and show no
signs of rot I would leave them in place.
If you have any further questions let me know.
Mark Assistant sysop sect 1
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One comment about the moisture barrier. It is applied to the warm side of the
structure. For northern homes with a winter heating season that means placing
it closest to the interior wall. This prevents moisture from migrating into the
insulation and reaching its dew point as it travels to the cooler outer wall.
Tyvek house wrap can still be applied under the insulation and siding on the
outside of the home if you feel that you have a drafty house. You may find it
more cost effective to caulk and foam seal the cracks and areas around the
windows. Despite My house have the siding and insulation installed I still had
a draft comming in along the bottom of the wall along the base board. After
sealing along the foundation and bottom plate that cured it.
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