#Film grain/hair, etc.
19 messages in this thread
Is there any IPAS that simulates old film? Like making things grungy, grainy,
and stuff like hair in the frame, etc. Burning up the film would be fun too.
JNJ
John
There is an IPAS routine called Old Movie from the Pyros Partnership that shows
mold and scratches, and can add a sepia tone to animations.
bob
JNJ:
>> Is there any IPAS that simulates old film?
Ah, my son, you haven't looked in IPAS.TXT since last year, have you? <bg>
Yes, we have two routines – OldMovie.IXP that adds scratches, dust, and fungus
to your images, also removes color and/or turns to sepia, in addition to adding
a bit of wobble to each frame.
Film.IXP adds filmgrain to your animation. Both are fully user configurable
for amounts of the effects. (How much fungus do you want on your film, sir?
And will that be with or without scratches?)
Greg Pyros
Well Greg, I did a long time ago- but for some reason things arent up to date
with the file… so it's lost my attention. <g> I remembered hearing/reading
something about film effects so I just asked. I figured something that
wonderful, amazing, and stupendous wouldn't have been on that _old_ list…
<ok, I admit it- I forgot.> I did search the libraries.. (you need a demo
flic.) All I found was a group of files that could be VP'd over the video- but
it was repetitive, etc.
How much?
Thank you oh master of fungus. <G> Fungus?? Yech- not that old!!
JNJ
JNJ:
Call Tony at (714) 957-1616 for pricing and to order.
Greg
PS – "Master of Fungus" – Is that an accredited college degree?
Pyros has an IXP that does what you need including sepia tone. I just bought
it for a project I'm doing this week. It also is supposed to have wobble. I
haven't used it yet but I'll let you know how the effect goes by Wednesday. I
also have to do some time lapsed recording of the video in the PAR to give that
Chaplinesque speed up motion of the old movie look. This project is going to
be fun! You wouldn't happen to know what the old movie frame rate was.
Old movies were shot at 18 fps (which is why they look so fast now a-days,
projected at 24 fps). Sounds like you have a fun project!
Cheers, John
Sounds great. I'm sure Greg will get on here to give me all the info- (yep, he
did).
I'm doing a similar project, less "old film style" as you, but something
similar w/ a PAR. It's a Forrest Gump type spoof. We're getting some old
footage, and trying to comp. a guy and a bird mascot together. Fun stuff too-
a good break from the routine. Depending on the footage, we may need to play
with things to get them both to match up semi realistically. Sepia tone sounds
great. Wobble too.
I'd guess that 12-15 fps would be a likely frame rate of old film cameras. You
might want to call around and see if you can find the frame rate of an old 8mm
or Super 8. I bet it's similar to those.
Have you tried the 24fps switch on the PAR? How does that look?
Please let me know how it works out when you can. We're going to do some
experimenting this week- so It'd be good to know how it goes w/ you.
JNJ
8mm movies were in both 18 FPS and 24 fps. I don't know how slow the
old Chaplan movies were played for real time. I would guess between
10-15 fps. I'll be testing the footage tonight.
The PAR's 24FPS won't work for video output because of a loss of
vertical sync. What you must do is fake the effect by video taping
in real time. edit your piece then capture it in the par using the
time lapsed record. When you play it back at 30 fps it is
proportionatly speeded up. I'll start with recording to par every
other frame which should be equal to 15 fps played back at 30. It
doesn't have to be precise but I believe this coupled with the Pyros
ipas will be just what will work.
sounds good. I'll be getting the PAR tomorrow or Wed, so I'm not too
familiar to all it's workings. I was thinking a quick strobe might
be convincing enough. That is, if the TBC-IV did strobe- and if it's
fast enough. Let me know how it looks.
I just finished up the rendering of the old movie effect and it is as
realistic as I could wish for. The test with straight rendering of
30 FPS is OK but coupled with the time lapsed recording makes it very
realistic. Actually you don't use the time lapsed record as this
will only record 1 FPS at fastest speed. You want to record your
frames at 15 FPS using normal but play them back at 30 FPS. This
makes it look very real. I tested the strobe effect with the video
DVE but it just didn't look right.
>> I just finished up the rendering of the old movie effect and it is
as >> realistic as I could wish for.
I'm glad that our IPAS worked out so well for you! Did you end up
using just OldMovie, or did you add FilmGrain to it, also?
I just used old movie. By setting the quality factor to 12 in the
record mode there was enough graininess to the image that I felt
additional grain via IPAS was unnecessary. I don't recall seeing
that in the package, though.
>> I don't recall seeing that in the package, though.
FilmGrain is in a different package. It came out a few months later.
Greg Pyros
I'm glad to hear it worked. Thanks for the results- I'm looking forward to
experimenting myself. Recording at 15fps sounds much easier than time lapse,
etc. I'll definately try it out.
>> Recording at 15fps sounds much easier than time lapse,
One is as easy as the other as is recording at normal speed. The PAR
is simply a revolutionary piece of equipment. Much like the Toaster
when it first came out.
the PAR is definately revolutionary. Add sound, and you're limitless in
creative possibilities. What do you think about the MCI drivers coming out for
the PAR?
Can't wait- it's coming tomorrow.
JNJ
What I do is to process all the live video frames straight from the
PAR (rotoscoping using a single machine) and save the processed
images in my local disk. When I tell 3D Studio to do the processing
from the Video Post, I tell it to do it all but skipping every other
frame. Later, when all is done, I just copy every frame to the PAR
twice. I have done this with all of my "paint" effects and the result
is great. I have this sequence where a camera slowly moves toward a
framed painting on a wall. As the camera approaches, the painting
starts to move and the camera goes in… you get the picture.
I did the whole thing by using the IFL and VP the whole project never
laid a frame to my dos drive. If I had to do 3 minutes of movie
effects my HD wouldn't be big enough. When I was all done the
finished movie was ready to record to tape.