#3K & Multiscan Monitors
21 messages in this thread
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if Commodore has come up with a
cure for the 1950 jitters? I know my monitor is still under warranty but
the service center I'd take it to mentioned that many people have replaced
their 1950's with ones that end up doing the same thing.
One thing I'd like to do is know why kind of monitor other 3000 users are
using. I hooked up a Sony 1302 up via a 9 to 15 pin adapter but the
display was fuzzy. I'm not sure why as the 1302 looked great with a
Flicker Fixer. So, you 3000 users. What kind of monitor are you using?
I'm leaning towards a Mitsubishi Diamondscan right now (perfect for DCTV
too). All I know is I'm tired of thinking I'm in an earthquake all the
time! 🙂
Thanks a bunch!
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
Dan, someone at the local users group was having problems with a jittery
1950 also and was asking about it. The Pres put out the word, "DON'T buy a
1950 monitor!!". Apparently they have changed manufacturers again and
putting out a bunch of junk. I have a NEC-3D for my 3000, been rock steady
since the day I bought it. Although you do have to put up with about a 1/4"
black border on each side, typical for many MultiSyncs.
John – K7KB (via Whap!)
But what is the cause, guys? What conditions are present? My 1950 is
perfect today, although I have for the past 4-5 days been very frustrated
with the condition. Before that it was several months without problems.
Does anyone have any clues on the actual cause?
Neill
I'd really like to know too. I had it perfectly adjusted up until summer
finally hit southern California and my room temperature increased.
One of these days I'll get adventurous and take the monitor in to work and
scope things out.
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
There is the certain place vertical and horizontal that seem to stop when
you adjust a panpot. Thing is, its usually not in center-> mine is
horizontally to the far right and have to adjust my WB to Left and little
UP from the center. That seem to stop a jitter on 1950, but I don't think
there is a definite coordinate…
– THANX R.SATOH ->via Whap!
John,
I have a 1950 monitor, ordered in July, but backordered and not delivered
until the middle of September. I have not seen a single jiggle on this
monitor except for the first five or ten minutes while I made initial
adjustments. I hear a lot about others having problems, but mine has been
excellent. (I do use it with a Microway flickerfixer.)
Betty
I consider the ultimate monitor for the Amiga to be the Sony GVM-1300. It
is only 14 inches and is pricey ($1100), but there is no better. Specs 4
video inputs(composite, Y/C, 2 RBG (digital or analog)) with matching mono
audio inputs. Fully adjustable width in 31Khz mode. Is multisync, 15-36Khz,
.25mm dot pitch, 35 Mhz bandwith. Has perfect high voltage regulation, very
good convergence. Has separate rbg and composite level control. It has
optional remote control and swivel stand.
-Greg
I hate to watch the screen bend, buckle or waver as the the screen changes
on most cheap monitors when used with the Amiga. I currently have it set up
to connect to my A3000, 386 clone and my vcr.
– via Whap!
$1100? I COULD do that but…
I've been drooling over these HUGE monitors hooked up to the Sparc
workstations at work. HUGE! I can't imagine what it cost (especially
after seeing a tape drive costing them $1500.00 and it wasn't DAT or high
capacity). All I know is I'd LOVE to have that kind of resolution within
my budget.
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
Sounds like the Sony is an excellent monitor Greg, as well it should be for
the $1100 price tag! The composite input is a nice addition for those times
you need to do some video work. Although I'm happy with my 3D, there are
other monitors out on the market now that can easily match or beat it's
performance in it's price range. I got a good deal on this one because
someone needed the money REAL bad 8^)
John – K7KB (via Whap!)
John –
> Although I'm happy with my 3D, there are other monitors out on the
> market now that can easily match or beat it's performance in it's
> price range.
OK, I'll bite: which others do you feel match or beat the 3D for the the
price? I hope/expect to be in the market before long.
. . . . . JimDoc
With the NEC 3D, does the display look fuzzy? When I hooked up the Sony
1302, alternating colored pixels blended together. On the 1950, I can see
the pixels and their colors. This is probably not the fault of the 1302
though (screwy 9-15 pin adapter?). I too recommend people in not buying a
1950. Some have been lucky in getting one that doesn't bounce around but
my luck has never been that good. I'll add the NEC to my list. 🙂
Thanks,
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
My 3D is crystal clear, sharp, and rock steady.
Nope, the 3D display isn't fuzzy, quite sharp actually. Although you can
see the pixels, you really have to look hard on a 702×400 screen with the
display enhancer turned on 8^)
John – K7KB (via Whap!)
Looks like the experience I had with my 1302 was a fluke of some sort
probably due to the setup and cable I was using (Hmm. I wonder if one of
the reasons the display was fuzzy is because the 9 pin to 15 pin adapter
didn't pass shield ground to the 3000?). Now I get the fun part of looking
for a monitor! Thanks for your messages.
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
Dan,
I'm using a Sony 1302 w/ my 3000 & I love it. I don't know what you
mean about fuzzy, mine is crystal clear with pitch black blacks.
———————————————-Don- via Whap!
I didn't bother doing any adjustments nor see if there was a cable to go
from the 1302 to the 15 pin port. I had a 2000 with a Flicker Fixer so I
had a 9 pin cable and bought a 9 pin to 15 pin adapter. Perhaps going that
route gave me the fuzzies. It's too late to try it now since I sold the
monitor.
Now that the Toaster has now gotten out of my reach, I can definately get a
new monitor.
Thanks for your input (output?).
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
Dan;
I have a 1950 that is about a year old and has always been rock solid.
-bill – via Whap!
Some have been very lucky with 1950's. Three of the four people I know who
in my area that have 3000's have 1950 jitters. They put up with it. I get
frustrated. Bobbing my head in tune to the jitters is NOT fun! 🙂
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!
Dan;
I have to admit that when the messages complaining about the 1950 started
showing up, I was amazed. I kept looking at the label on my monitor!
I probably should type this very quietly (just touching the key with an
extreamly like touch so the monitor doesn't hear me) and install a wooden
return key but, this 1950 has not only been rock solid but actually has one
of the sharper images that I have seen on the amy. The color saturation is
very good. The HV supply is a bit soft but the monitor circuitry seems to
compensate quite well. That is, the monitor will appear to 'bloom' from
sudden brightness changes but there is no purity loss when it happens.
-bill – via Whap!
When the 1950 is steady, I'm quite happy with it. It may need some
adjustment inside (moving the yoke around) but it's been great. As time
goes on, the people who do have 1950's have been split (from the messages
I've seen here and on the local systems I call). Some get the jitters,
others don't. Now that the weather has cooled down, it's been rock solid
again. 🙂
Thanks for your replies.
Dan McCoy – via Whap! and saving money doing it too!