#Pallette Problems
3 messages in this thread
I scan original artwork to use in multimedia applications. A lot of
the pictures I am scanning at this time are too big for my Migraph
1200.
To solve the problem I scan in four (4) sections (upper right, lower
right, upper left, lower left) of the pictures.
I then take the 4 pictures into MacroPaint (IV24) and piece them
together to come up with one full sized picture that wouldn't have
normally fit.
THE PROBLEM: The colors on the right don't usually match the colors
on the left side of my final picture. It's quite obvious that the
picture has been scanned because there exists a line somewhere in the
middle of the picture with one side having one color pallette and the
other side having another one.
I'm praying someone has this same problem and can help me.
Thanks.
Jim Galfano
100056,266
You can use any Amiga image processing program, such as the $70
Imagemaster R/t from Black Belt Software, to either alter each image to
conform to the first, or to do a soft-edged composition when stitching the
4 images back into one.
I suppose that the differences come from the scanner's automatic
brightness and contrast adjustments, i.e. the red, green and blue
components are affected equally. (If not, get a new scanner — this one
would alter hues if it applied different operations to R, G and B)
Here's how I would do color correction using Imagemaster: say image 1 is
the top left scan, and image 2 is the top right. I would use "Define
color" to get RGB values from a few distinguishing marks on the right side
of image 1, and get RGB values for the same spots on image 2. Using green
values for example, I would plot value pairs on graph paper, with readings
from image 2 lying along the vertical (Y) axis, and those from image 1
along the horizontal (X) axis. After plotting a few points, you should see
a trend emerge, hopefully in the form of a straight line. If so, then you
can apply one contrast and one brightness correction to image 2, and make
it match image 1.
Measure the slope of the line; this tells you how much to increase the
contrast in image 2 to match image 1. When the contrast operation is
complete, take some new measures and draw a new graph; the line that
appears should have a slope of 1, but it may not intersect the Y axis at
the origin (0,0) point. If so, you need to add or subtract a constant
value to all the pixels in image 2, and they'll finally match those in
image 1. Just look at the Y coordinate where the line touches the Y axis,
and subtract that amount from image 2
Whew! Here's an example. I clicked on the same 3 spots in images 1 and 2.
The green component of each measurement was:
1 2
— —
124 112
233 246
36 4
The slope of the line can be computed by using any 2 points and dividing
(difference in "1" values) by (difference in "2" values). In this example,
the slope is (233-36)/(246-4) = 1.21. This means we must increase image
2's contrast by .21, or 21%.
After doing so, we take 3 more measures:
1 2
— —
124 112
17 3
255 247
If the new line had a slope of 1, there would be a one-to-one relationship
between values in image 1 and image 2; the fact this is not true here can
be attributed to small errors in calculations, or that you didn't exactly
pick the same points in each image. At any rate, the difference between
images is around 11 luminance units (out of 256). Imagemaster expects a
fractional number, here (11/256) = .043. In Process/Scientific/Add or
Subtract a Constant, select Monochrome to add the same value to all three
R, G, and B components, and enter .043 as the value. Presto, image 2
matches image 1 as closely as possible.
The process may sound really scientific, but it's quite easy to follow if
you try to mimic my example. The best part of it is, you never have to
guess at how much correction to apply, only to Undo and Redo with
different settings. One contrast, one add/subtract, and you're done.
Certainly worth a bit of math, if you ask me.
Blaq!
Blaq!,
Thanks for the information. I'm going to give it a shot.
I'll let you know whether or not I was successful.