#A1000 keyboard
32 messages in this thread
Does anybody know of the availability of a keyboard to replace that of an
A1000? (yes, I still have mine) Keys are sticking and functioning
erratically, cleaning doesn't seem to help.
Thanks, Alex
Alex,
You can use an A2000 keyboard and an adapter. It won't fit under
you A1000 anymore, but it'll work just fine.
Don
Will any old IBM-style keyboard work on the A1000 with an adapter? Would
such an adapter have to be homebrewed? Has a design been published
anywhere?
Alex,
NO.
When you hit a key on a keyboard, it generates what is known as a
scancode. PC scancodes and Amiga scancodes don't match, thus while you
could physically attach a PC keyboard to an Amiga, you'd not get the
correct information.
Scancodes aren't standard, even on a PC, an XT keyboard doesn't
generate the same scancodes that an AT keyboard does. So the fact that the
AMiga scancodes are different is not unusual.
Northgate does make a multi-use keyboard where you set which set of
scancodes it generates by setting some switches on the bottom. One of the
settings if for an Amiga, so that particular keyboard could be used with
the Amiga.
The cables can be homebrew…there's not much to it. It just
adapts the DIN plug on an A2000 keyboard to the A1000. If you make a
homebrew cable, make SURE you have it right. Otherwise you could very
easily blow some of the A1000's circuitry.
Don
Ok, thanks, I'll ask around at retailers. e
You can use a Northgate keyboard and an adapter. I use one on my A3000 and
it works great, although it was pricey.
-Greg
Greg,
Regardign using a Northgate keyboard on your A3000. Any particular
benefit over using it rather the stock keyboard it came with? Any added
features, or is it just the "feel" of the keyboard that you prefer?
BTW, didn't you once say that you recommended holding off purchasing an
A3000 until they had time to revise their motherboard. Have you changed
your mind or is this a system you purchased for developer purposes long
ago.
-RSL-
I am using it with my A2500/30. I have yet to buy an A3000. Believe me, I
wouldn't have bought a developer machine long ago because you got ancient
versions of motherboard and chips. There was a reason CBM was so willing
to discount the price!
As far as Northgate keyboards, I use one of their systems at work. I have
always found their keyboards excellent. I have also had the infuriating
problem that my original A2000 keyboard would intermittantly fail, taking
sometimes a half hour to decide to work again.
Some people have reported having problems with the NG keyboard and
accelerated Amigas. I haven't had the problem yet. I do have an older
version ROM in my Ultra keyboard. Maybe something changed in the newer
ones.
-Greg
Greg,
Oh, I thought that you mentioned that you owned an A3000, and I remember
your previous cautions. So far I haven't had any problems with my A3000's
keyboard, so I think I'll save the $100 plus on yet some other "toy" for my
A3000.
BTW, I understand that Expert Systems, the guys that sell your
Rejuvenator, are working on a multiple parallel/serial I/O board. Are you
doing any work on this product??
-RSL-
No. I have access to Expert's A3000s, but I've always said I'm gonna wait
until the unit stabilizes before I buy one myself.
Expert's multi I/O card is developed by a number of other people. I have no
association with that product (If I had, it would have been out 6 months
ago!). It is currently waiting on SW drivers to be written.
I've at least four more HW projects of my own that should be out in the
next few months: A dual (512KROM-compatible) ROM adapter, the A1000 bus
expansion buffer kit, and a couple of others that are kinda
competition-sensitive. The ROM kit and one of the 'classified' projects
should be out by 1 Jan, the exp buffer by 1 Feb, and the other 'classified'
project mid-summer.
I am also in the midst of upgrading the Rejuvenator to use Zip DRAM so we
can sell a 2 Meg chip ram version. It will also have dual ROM sockets (and
retain KS disk mode). Expected cost of that unit will depend on 1 Meg x 4
Zip DRAMS. At $40 each (4 needed) the 2 Meg Rejuvenator will list near
$650.
Finally, the existing Rejuvenators can be upgraded to 2 Meg of chip RAM.
The Zip adapter board I have talked about previously is in production.
Price will be $275. It includes 2 Meg Agnus, 2 Meg of RAM, and the adapter
PCB. A $25 credit will be given if you exchange your Rejuvenator's old 1
Meg Agnus, bringing the cost to $250. It is steep, but the adapter PCB came
in a lot higher cost than estimated.
-Greg
Greg,
Oh, I thought that you mentioned that you owned an A3000, and I remember
your previous cautions. So far I haven't had any problems with my A3000's
keyboard, so I think I'll save the $100 plus on yet some other "toy" for my
A3000.
BTW, I understand that Expert Systems, the guys that sell your
Rejuvenator, are working on a multiple parallel/serial I/O board. Are you
doing any work on this product??
-RSL-
Seems a shame to get rid of that beautiful A1000 keyboard just because a
few keys stick. You might want to try a _good_ cleaning, cosnsisteing of
dismantling the keyboard and washing it thoroughly, followed with a
selective application of a _fgood_, residue-free contact cleaner/lube. What
the heck… line up a replacement, then try the cleaning.
-larry
A month or so ago, my v key started sticking, getting worse with time.
After I got fed up, I pulled the keycap off with a DIP puller and squirted
some rubbing alcohol in the keyswitch. That fixed the v key, but over the
next few weeks I had to take off large numbers of keycaps at a time (once I
had to pull 15) for cleaning. Then it slowly lessened until the only
problem I've had in the past week or so is a key that won't make contact
(also fixable with rubbing alcohol). I was looking into replacement
keyboards in case this one just stopped working for one reason or another.
That bit of cleaning seems to have worked for now, I'll see how it works in
the future.
Do you really see that much aesthetic value in the A1000 keyboard? (:
The 1000 keyboard is, without question, the single best keyboard I have
ever used. Great feel, wonderfully ergonomic, and it fit into the 'garage'.
-larry
It is a nice keyboard for general use, but when I'm going full blast at 60
words per minute (many, many years of compuserve, heh), I think my father's
generic IBM keyboard might be a bit better for my purposes. Even when
clean, the A1000's keyswitches feel somewhat overdamped.
ALEX – RUBBING ALCOHOL? Most people say that is not a very good idea, and
that you should use one of the electronics cleaners such as you would use
on the contacts on a tape recorder, etc. – the kind you would get at Radio
Shack. I think rubbing alcohol is supposed to leave a residue that is not
good.
Betty
I do think it would be a better idea to use some sort of alcohol-like
electronics cleaner, but we were out of tv tuner cleaner (is that a bda
idea, too?) when the problem arose.
Isopropyl alcohol is available from virtually any drug store, though it
usually isn't on a shelf, and you might have to ask for it. Rubbing alcohol
is isopropyl, with the addition of a small amount of oil and a scenting
agent.
-larry
I'm no expert on this – but my husband taught electronics for years, and
he's tried hard to teach me. I think the TV tuner cleaner should work
fine.
Betty
Betty,
The only problem with tuner cleaner is that there's more than one kind.
One type of tuner cleaner leaves a lubricant residue that will not be good
for the keyboard. Nonresidue cleaners are what to look for — Radio Shack,
among others, markets a nonresidue aerosol cleaner.
Pete
Alex,
Why do you think it's called "Rubbing Alcohol" versus just plain
"Alcohol"?
Because it has oils in it…oils that collect dust and dirt and
cause keys to start sticking.
Get some Radio Shack Zero Residue Cleaner and use that to clean the
keys and contacts.
As to the keyboard itself…probably one of the best keyboards for
"feel" every made as far as I'm concerned. I loved it.
Don
I thought it was just isopropyl and water. I'll pick up some zero residue
cleaner in the near future.
Alex,
Rubbing alcohol? Boy, are you asking for trouble! Unless you like
attracting dirt and grunge to your keyswitches (rubbing alcohol often
contains petroleum distilates, lanolin, etc.) use something a bit more high
quality – like 95% pure isopropyl alcohol (available in the diabetic
supplies section of most any grocery or drug store). If you go directly to
the pharacist you get get 99% pure isopropyl. Using rubbing alcohol is only
slightly better than squirting 3 in 1 oil down there.
-sja
Steve:
Gee, that's a good idea! use 3 in 1 and get three keypresses for the price
of 1!! <g>
-Mike Schiller
In sunny Fort Lauderdale
Ok, no more rubbing alchohol. I'll be sure to pick up some no residue
cleaner. Rubbing alcohol must not leave too much residue, since it worked
so far, but down the road, I guess it might have made me sorry.
Alex,
When I have this problem I do the following:
1. Turn off the Amiga and disconnect the KeyBoard
2. Carefully pop off all the keys. Remembering the sticky ones.
3. Turn the KeyBoard Upside Down and shake vigorusly
(you won't believe the crud that will fall out).
4. Clean the keyboard with a damp cloth (lightly moisten with water)
and allow to dry.
5. Clean all the keys.
6. Buy some PURE SILICONE spray available at most Hardware stores.
7. Lightly moisten a Q-Tip Swab with the PURE SILICONE and apply
sparingly to the "STICKY" key posts working them up and down until
they no longer stick.
8. Replace all keys on their proper posts (use the picture in the
Amiga Manual.
The above should save you from buying a NEW KeyBoard it has for me.
— Gary Lucas —
Cleaning with rubbing alcohol has worked for me (see my message, probably
the one right before this one). I did find plenty of cat hair and a few
fingernail clippings under the keycaps I did remove. Can silicone when used
as a lubricant be depended upon not to gum up? Also I heard than many
silicones (possibly only the adhesives) contain acetic acid which corrodes
copper. This might not be true, since I don't think that copper will
replace the hydrogen to make the copper salt, but it is something to think
about.
Alex,
Humm…try taking a dirty penny and sticking it in vinegar and
leaving it there for an hour or so. Now tell me that acetic acid and
copper are "friends" and won't react.
And don't forget…vinegar is only 5% acetic acid.
Silicon adhesives generally do use acetic acid as a curing agent;
however, you'd not use an adhesive to cure a sticking problem.
You do NOT want to put any libricant on a keyboard, you want it
clean and DRY. Oils, etc. collect dust and dirt and eventually gum things
up.
Don
I was wary of using a lubricant when it was suggested to me for that
reason. A lubricant would eventually cause the same problems that stuck
the keyboard in the first place and be tougher to remove.
Alex,
I have had excellent results with a _good_ contact cleaner. These leave a
protective film and provide some lubrication without gumming up or
attracting more gunk. The brand I am currently using is Chemtronics Kontact
Restorer.
-larry
I'll havve to get some of that tomorrow, it's getting sticky again.
^^ doubled v, but it isn't sticking, the computer just seems to get
two "v" signals sometimes when I hit the key.
Alex,
All I can tell you is what worked for me. I was told by a local Amiga
Repair Tech. (I am NOT the tech. type) to: buy a can of "PURE" silicone;
remove the key cap; slightly moisten the end of a Q-Tip with the "PURE"
silicone; lightly apply it to the key post; and work (push up & down) the
key post to get "free" movement. In our office, we have had 4 A-1000s since
May of 1986. They are used mostly for word processing 8 hours a day 5 & 1/2
days a week. Only 2 have had problems with keys sticking and each had only
one sticky key. We used "PURE" silicone (method described above) ONCE and
have NOT had any reoccuring problems. The last time we had to "liberate" a
key was over a year ago. I still have the FULL can of "PURE" silicone in
my desk just in case…8^).
— Gary Lucas —