#Still got flicker w/2320
12 messages in this thread
I just purchased the new A2320 card with a Mitsubishi Diamond Scan monitor.
I'm having a problem with getting rid of the flicker from Interlace mode. I
have a 2000HD with the Fatter Agnus (1meg chip ram) and 3 megs of memory.
When I run the test pattern #2 (640×400 interlace) i can't get rid of the
white on black flicker, no matter how long I turn the fine tuning dial on
the card. I've gone over the check list in the trouble shooting section
and seem to have met all the specifications. The only thing left is the
"Coarse and fine tuning control adjustment." I would like to advoid this
if at all possible. I have a feeling there is something very simple
staring
me in the face that I'm missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Don
I haven't seen that card yet, but isn't there a disable switch on it?
Perhaps in the enable position it's not making contact, or something? Just
a wild guess.
Thanks for the reply, but the switch is definitely in the enable position.
I'm beginning to wonder if there might be some problem with compatibility
with the monitor, especially regarding the cable, but the Mitsubishi
Diamond
Scan is listed as being compatible in the manual. Thanks again.
Don
I'm using the same setup as yours – Mitsubishi/2320 – with the Mitsubishi
factory supplied cable and it works fine. If you still have flicker, you
might want to have your dealer check it out.
Fred
Don, try the coarse adjustment. If that still doesn't work it is
defective and just take it to your dealer for a swap.
— Ethan
Ethan,
I did try the coarse adjustment. And I came to the same conclusion.
Unfortunately the dealer had only one in stock so I'll have to wait until
next week to get another one. It's very strange – do you have any idea
what could be causing this problem? It DOES remove the scan lines from the
non-interlace modes – only the flicker in the 640×400 interlace mode is not
fixed. It seems like if it wasn't going to work, it wouldn't work at all,
not this selective type of malfunction.
Don
Is jumper J300 on the motherboard in the proper position. I discovered
that mine was not. It caused the 2320 not to de-interlace properly. Step
7 under trouble shooting, page 18.
That's the one thing I didn't check. I think it involves removing the
power supply, which I would like to avoid doing. Is there any way of
checking or fixing this without removing the power supply?
Don
Nope. You need to pull the tray with the disks and power supply to get
access to the jumper. Kind of a pain, but could be your problem.
Right, this did turn out to be the problem. With the help of my dealer, we
pulled the power supply, and sure enough, there was the J300 jumper set to
the wrong (non-default) position. Setting it right cleared up the problem.
Don
Oh, and by the way, thanks for calling my attention to this as a possible
solution.
Don
Don,
I just got a Diamond Scan a few weeks ago, and had problems with it. I
found out though, that all my problems were related to poor cabling. I
built my own in somewhat of a rush, and didn't get all the grounds
connected properly. This caused all sorts of problems including a bluish
tint to the screen, jittering, momentary dropouts, ect. Make sure all 5
cables have good grounds since the Diamond Scan seems to isolate them
internally.
Dean
DKB Software