#Bamboo yellowing
There is growing evidence that many Phyllostachys require several hundred hours
below 50 F each winter to retain vigor which is why most do not do well in
South Florida. I have grown all three indoors, P. bambusoides is the easiest.
A cool place is essential, even if some light exposure is lost. I have used an
unheated bedroom in the sixties by day and fifty or so at night. If you have
only a warm sunny spot you might try a tropical bamboo. Some are very
decorative (Bambusa multiplex cultivars, Chusquea coronalis, Bambusa vulgaris
cultivars are some you might consider)
Browning tips usually indicates overwatering or overfertilizing. With some
bamboos (P. nigra for example) the tips blacken in the winter whatever the
treatment. If the plants are less than ten or so feet high or the pots are not
crowded with culms, I'd say the pots are too large at 18".
Leaf spots are a typical symptom of spider mites, easily detected by the small
shiny webs on the underside of the leaves. Many growers find Safer's
Insecticidal Soap phytotoxic to bamboo. I prefer the ultrafine horticultural
oils (Sunspray is one brand). One to two tblsp/gal of water with about 3/4
strength Orthene works well. You might first try it without the Orthene.
Spider mites are sometimes a difficult pest to control.
I did not look at the GIF files as I don't have a color monitor. This is the
first time I've regretted not having one
Read action !