#Photomodeler
Ed:
I have EOS Photomodeler. I bought it about two months ago and haven't had
time to try to use it for anything serious. I ran through their $25
demo/tutorial version and was impressed enough to sink about $3k into the
software and a negative scanner.
The only concerns are as follows:
1) Highest accuracy is achieved with a calibrated camera, so if you are
working with someone else's photos — as is often the case in our business —
you may not get optimum results. You calibrate the camera by taking 8 photos
of a special target, marking four point on each, and then letting the computer
crunch for a couple hours (not kidding).
2) Photos need to be taken using a camera with a known focal length — zoom
lenses are out.
3) Getting the photos into the computer is a problem. Using a flatbed
scanner with prints introduces another lens (the enlarger's lens) and reduces
accuracy. The best method is a film scanner, like the Microtek, Nikon or
Polaroid. Next best is Photo-CD. The problem with the latter is that you
don't get accurate positioning of the scan relative to the geometric center of
the negative. The work around is a piece of plastic that you super glue (not
kidding this time either) into your camera. I didn't want to do that to nice
cameras, so we went the film scanner route. With the right film scanner you
just scan the entire negative and then digitize the left side corners of the
negative mask, this allows the software to locate the exact center of the
negative.
On the plus end, the people at EOS are very knowledgeable and helpful.
We've been using an in house app to do 3D-photogrammetry, but can't claim near
the results that Photomodeler offers, so I can say with conviction that
photogrammetry IS THE WAY TO GO. If you like I'll update you when I've had a
chance to really put it through it paces. In the mean time, you might want to
get the demo version.
Hope this helps!
Cal
4)
-Cal Haines