#Mouse…Trapped!
9 messages in this thread
Help…My mouse is all mickey'd up. My A2500 operates normally, except the
mouse does not move the pointer. I am still able to run programs and move the
pointer via the keyboard equivalents and even the left and right mouse buttons
still work…however, the pointer will NOT move via mouse input. I've tested
three different mice which all work normally on my 500. Do I have
a problem which I can correct by myself or should I begin seeking the nearest
service center A.S.A.P.?
Thanks, Jim
Have you tried using the mouse on your 500?
Steve
Steve,
Yep, I've tested three mice on the 2500…none move horizontally or vertically
but the left and right mouse buttons still work. They all work perfectly fine
on my 500.
Later, Jim
If you've got a later revision motherboard in your 2000, there's a fuse in
the 5 volts comming out the mouse port. It's a pico fuse that looks like a
solid green resistor on the motherboard near the port. If that fuse blows,
the buttons will still work, they're just switches to ground, but you'll
get no mouse motion.
.
Jim
Jim, Thanks for the tip on the fuse being blown on my machine. I just paid 40
American dollars to have it replaced. Take heed to other Amigans…You can get
away with mouse switching and joystick switching on a powered up machine only
–MOST– of the time…and then — ZAP, when you least expect it.
Later, Jim
Jim,
The "powered on" scenerio isn't a requirement. There is no protection for
the fuse — or for the custom chips. A static electricity zap on the
mouse can take out the fuse even with the computer turned off.
About 1 week after I got my 3000 I walked across a carpeted floor, touched
a mouse button — ZAP!. The machine instantly gurued the would not boot
up again. What happened was the static zap went from the mouse, to the
mouse port, followed the traces to Denise, and fried her. 6 weeks later I
got a (under warranty) new motherboard from CBM. Luckily my dealer loaned
me another 3000 while I was waiting.
-sja
Jim,
I thought that the mouse port was buffered! Is that not so????? Ok. I
know that it's STUPID to pull out or plug in expansion slot/zorro
slot appliances and serial cables etc… but I thought that it was
absolutely safe to muck about on the mouse port. I had a relais card
on my mouse and joystick ports with which I switched all kinds of
things aswell as the ports. I must have done about 400,000 PLUG N
PLAY changes as it where so as to test the relais… afterall I used
it to generate nice sounds and such (sounds great to hear a relais
loosing half it's life expectancy in ten minutes while humming
different tunes!!). The only problem I ever had was that my mouse
port worked itself loose from changing the mouse with the card in the
test phase (mabee it wasn't just the test phase :-)). I NEVER had the
slightest doubt as to the stability of the signals and the power it
can take/give.
You can give a poor soul a right shock!
Sean.
p.s. That puts that card on the endangered card species!
Glad to help out another Jim… 🙂 I just had to replace a fuse for a
guy's RGB port. So the mouse ports aren't the only places to watch it.
.Jim
Jim,
Sometimes it happens that the mouse port is worked loose by changing
joystick <–> mouse all the time. That means that you'll probably only
have to desolder the port and replace it with a print mount joystick port
(9 pol sub d). It happened to me and I just removed the old port and
soldered in a new one. It could also be that one of the CIA's is broken or
that Paula (I think) has a slight defunct but those are not likely because
they would also down other parts of the system.
To find out if it's the port you'd have to open up your Amiga and take a
look at the moterboard. If the mouse port is loose you can bet on the pins
having come off the board.
Sean.
p.s. Don't open it if it's still under warranty!