#1950 remedy?
11 messages in this thread
Hi,
Does anyone have user experience with the 1950 monitor. Mine seems to ill.
The screen will come to life and then fade to black after 1-2 minutes,or
the screen will start in black and maybe come to life if I turn it off
for a few minutes.
I called my dealer and he said he's got 4-5 in the shop doing the same. He
has been unsuccessful in repairing them for lack of tech support from the
manufacturer.
Has anyone been thru this problem and gotten the 1950 fixed?
Anyone got schematics for the 1950?
CJ —-> on AP
Chris, I have a 1950, and it has a different problem which I've been unable to
get repaired. It has to warm up for about five minutes before the screen
becomes readable. The text is so jittery that you cannot make out any of it.
Then, starting from the top, it gradually clears, and once warmed up, it works
perfectly until the next time I let it get cold. But I've not come across the
problem you mention, and I don't know who could fix it. I wish I could be of
more help.
—Betty
Betty,
Thanks for the response, tonite it seems to work after warming up for a
few minutes. Strange gremlin eh?
CJ —-> on AP
Chris,
Does it fade to black or just go suddenly? I've seen a couple that had bad
analog boards. That's the board where the analog/digital switch is
mounted. Anyway, these boards had flakey joints and after would make the
screen go blank after a while. Sometimes you could get the monitor back by
frobbing the a/d switch a few times.
I know the 1084's are prone to break the solder joints under the flyback
transformer. That can produce the same fade out symptoms. Can't say I've
ever seen a 1950 do it though. When it goes black, does the power light
stay on?
-Jim
MOS via Autopilot & Amiga
Jim,
It fades quickly to black. And yes, the power light stays on. The 2nd day
this occured I left it on for about 20 minutes. During that time the
screen came back to life 2 times,but only for 15-20 sec before fading to
black again.
Tonite, I re-connected the 1950 and have tried your idea of the TTL switch
but no success. Do you think it might be a capacitor? I say this because
the startup sound is slightly different than what I recall.
Hey, the screen just popped on for about 10 sec, now off and it just came
on again. Screen is still on and counting.:)
Anyway back to the capacitor idea, whatcya think?
Screen is still on (5 Min) as I type this reply.
I'll try turning it off, wait 5 min, and then on again to see what it
does.
Well, screen came back to life upon restart. This is a strange gremlin,
not sure what to think now.:)
I'll keep you posted.
CJ —-> on AP
Chris,
It's hard to say without seeing it myself… and monitors were never my
strong area, I just know a few of the common failures. It sure sounds like
the flakey connection problem I saw on one 1950. The analog board itself
was the problem. Finaly I ended up tapping on it with an insulated tool
till I found the bad area, then resoldered the joints in that area. I
guess it's still working…they've never called me back out to fix it and
it was running the last time I was out there to fix their 2000.
-Jim
MOS via Autopilot & Amiga
Jim,
Well, I started the 1950 this morning and 20 min went by before a
screen appeared. I guess I'll check out your idea and see what I find. I
left the 1950 "on" for about 30 min last nite and the screen never faded
after warming up. Certainly has my curiosity peaked to find this gremlin.
Thanks
CJ —-> on AP
Just to add to this thread about 1950 monitor problems…
I did the same as you but used an aerosol freezer spray to locate the problem
area which proved to be just below the TTL switch. I then remade every joint
in that vicinity, about 40 of them, and to my relief the 1950 has worked
perfectly ever since.
Bob
Bob Wellbeloved
Winchester UK
Thanks for your comments, Bob. Good to hear others have seen similar
problems and successfully corrected them. That freeze spray is handy
stuff. I used it to track down a flakey clock delay line on a 3000 once.
-Jim
MOS via Autopilot & Amiga
Ever hear of those switches they used to have in blinking lights on cars?
They consisted of two strips of metal. When the light was on, they made
contact and warmed up which caused one strip to bend slightly upwards. The
light went out. So the strip cooled off, came back down and the light
switched on again. The strips heated up, etc. etc.
Now, substitute some loose contact or even a simple wire somewhere for the
metal strips, substitute your monitor for the blinking light and there you
have it. That's what I think is wrong with your monitor. Our TV at home
did this once, had the same symptoms as your monitor.
>F<riso "The Storyteller part I" 🙂
Friso P. Gosliga | Auto
CIS: 100341,464 – Internet: Friso.Gosliga@kub.nl | Pilot
I agree tis one of those hot/cold running gremlins 🙂
CJ —-> on AP