Dear Synthesis, Part II
29-Nov-94 16:27:43
Sb: #138493-Dear Synthesis, Part II
Fm: Kevin C. Gibson 75313,620
To: Syndesis 76004,1763
Oh….. John, John, John,
Ohhhh. My face is as red as a crawfish straight out of the boiling pot.
I feel like crying. I had no idea what you were referring to.
A casserole consisting of black-eyed peas, rice and smoked sausage is
definitely a local favorite. But the term "Hoppin' John" is one I've never
heard. Gawd! A northerner educating this ol' southern boy about his hometown.
I can't imagine living here most of my life and never having heard that name.
So I got on the phone.
I called my Mom. Yes. She serves black-eyed peas and cabbage annually on
New Year's Day. Tradition. The cabbage means wealth, I forget what the peas
are for. As a child I hated the way the cabbage stunk up the house.
Then there was the day-long football game… but that's another story.
Mom's never heard of the name "Hoppin' John."
So I called two friends, both native New Orleanians. Never heard of it, either.
I started to think this was the invention of some P.R. hack to cash in on the
popularity of "Cajun" food and "blackened" everything.
I called the Cafe La Salle at the Hilton. I spoke with the chef.
They serve Cajun Cheese Sticks and Cajun Popcorn… sheez!
But, nope, never heard of "Hoppin' John." Neither had two cooks or hostesses.
I called Don's Seafood Hut Restaurant & Oyster Bar. Run by the same family
since 1934 with restaurants in N.O., Baton Rouge and Lafayette, heart of the
Cajun Country. I talked with the owner. Nope. Never heard of it.
Ditto for The Louisiana Seafood Exchange. Over 50 types of seafood served.
And a slew of mouth-watering po-boys. But no "Hoppin' John."
Ditto The Louisiana Purchase Kitchen and Deanie's Seafood out by the lake.
So I decided to go to the source. THE MAN. I called my fellow restauranteur
Chef Paul Prudhomme. I spoke with Paul Miller, executive chef and
general manager of K Paul's Louisiana Kitchen. He pulled out Prudhomme's
book, "Seasoned America," and read to me a passage regarding "Hoppin' John."
No way I can do this verbatim, but the gist of it is "Hoppin John's" origins
may begin with African slaves living in the Caribbean. ( Jamaica, mon!)
Black-eyed peas were a dietary staple of plantation slaves living there.
Another theory suggests "Hoppin' John" has roots in American folklore and
stems from hospitality hosts extending an invitation to stay for supper.
"Hop In John." BTW Prudhomme uses smoked sausage. No need for andouille.
Now, Mr. Foust. I gotta tell you. Six long-time chefs, a couple of cooks, a
few restauranteurs and a couple of friends had never heard of "Hoppin' John."
Though almost all are familiar with the New Year tradition and the black-eye
pea casserole. So I don't feel too bad for not recognizing the term.
But I will apologize for jumping on you. I was so busy dodging your jabs
I didn't take time to enjoy your humor. I'm really glad to see it return.
My tour of New Orleans restaurants has resulted in a few new ideas for
additions to the menu at "John's Joint." We thank you for providing the
impetus. And yes, Bowls of "Hoppin' John" will now be available. And no
matter where the name originated, it will now be forever linked to you.
So I'm not sure we can truthfully say you have nothing to do with our
fine establishment. I will issue the disclaimer as promised, but I
hope you will soon visit. If you do, be careful as you enter. You
may have to step over Tony Vassalle. He's been passed out for days
now. He had one too many Time Warps and I haven't been able to get
him to snap out of it.
I'm gonna try and get some andouille or boudin for you for when Papa
Noel makes his Christmas rounds. Stop by for coffee some time. I
think we could use a little input from you on the decor. Paul
Sanford brought over some velvet paintings of Elvis the other day and
brightened the room, but it still looks a little empty.
Hop In John!!!
Kevin Gibson
Food for Thought, Inc.
John's Joint -= Several positions now open. Apply within. =-