CompuServe Thread

#MAPS and MATERIALS?

15 messages in this thread
#72358From: James TichenorDec 18, 1993 12:27 PM
Hello! Well, I was thinking about the forum, my project, 3DS and computer animation last night. I just recieved the new issue of CGW – some neat stuff… I like the fact that they are concentrating more on animation and high end rendering than they were before. Anyway, I wonder if anyone would like to share some MATERIALS secrets. I've modelled my set, taking upwards of 2 1/2 months, with about 75000 faces and 150 objects (which I hope will be cut down) and now I want to fine tune my materials. I understand that this is the crutial stage in development of "the personal look" (along with lighting) so some people may be hesitant to sharing these secrets – no problem. There was an article in the CGW about game makers, talking about using 3DS and learning about transperancy. I understand transparency, but can never make it look good. I want my scene to have an "old" look to it – keywords: end, sad, quite, inevitable, retirement, slow… This is a little fruity, but maybe you'll pick up on what I'm saying. I just want to create some maps and materials that suite my scene but really don't know how to go about it – I understand the THEORY of the materials editor, it's just the ideas or methods that escape me. Two things: fingerprints on a doorknob, and worn-out silver metal. What would you do? I hope I'm not being to vague and weird, but maybe you'll understand. Also, can we talk about creating maps in ANIMATOR or some similar program. Thanks for baring with me! James
#72375From: Dec 18, 1993 2:37 PM
James: >> fingerprints on a doorknob Maybe just use a decal of fingerprints applied on a metal surface. >> worn out silver metal Use an automatic shiny reflection for the good part and mask it with a map for the part where the silver has peeled away. Perhaps add a bump map for the rough portion, also. Greg Pyros [Pyros Partnership, Inc] gpyros@pyros.com 18-Dec-93 at 12:29p PST
#72428From: James TichenorDec 18, 1993 11:55 PM
<<Maybe just use a decal of fingerprints applied on a metal surface.>> How would you create this? Actually scan a fingerprint, or draw one by hand. I guess the scan would be more realistic… You methods actually are very similar to how I would have thought to do these things. Maybe I'm just being to mind-complicated, thinking it's trickier than it is. I guess it's just a matter of breaking down individual components of a map and adding them in, one-by-one, in the right places… Thanks for helping me think it out, Greg James
#72465From: Yost GroupDec 19, 1993 12:16 PM
Look at Shininess mapping as a way to break up the specular highlights with subtle irregularities. – Jack
#72575From: Yost GroupDec 20, 1993 12:01 AM
Try always using shininess maps with reflection maps to dull out portions of the refmap. Works great. – G
#72414From: John TissavaryDec 18, 1993 9:51 PM
Making good materials is the key, I think, to great 3DS images. There are, of course, several ways to go about this. I'm sure you've grasped the most basic, just adjusting the red green and blue sliders, the hue luminosity and saturation sliders. But the real sh*t is texture maps. You can use any compatible bitmap you want. I use maps from the CD, but I also make many myself. I use Fractal Painter, which is, without a doubt in my mind, the most powerful paint program available for the PC. I've had it for almost a year, and still don't know half of what it's capable of. Photostyler is a great image processing tool, where you can take scanned images and manipulate them to your heart's content. As far as incorporating texture maps, bump maps, and reflection maps, the best thing to do is go through the **tutorials** (urgh, not again <g>!), then experiment like a madman. You'll definitely get better with experience. If you're a good artist (painter, etc…), then you'll be able to create some fabulous maps. This is where a guy like Robert Stein really excels, in my opinion. Mondo Media, here in SF, has a Fractal Painter goddess, who creates some of the best texture maps I've seen. They really make the models look several million times better than with just ordinary materials. Cheers, John Tissavary (La Luna cie)
#72429From: James TichenorDec 18, 1993 11:55 PM
Hey John, Yeah, you know what I was thinking. <<Making good materials is the key, I think, to great 3DS images. >> Absolutely. I have "mastered" the basics and I think I'm hitting a wall in my own talents as an artist, seperate from the computer. I really have never developed these skills properly. Put my at a computer, and I kick butt – not a problem (well, maybe a couple <g>). But art was never my strong point (I hear echos of the "ILM" discussion with Aaron). Would you consider yourself an amature artist? Have you painted and drawn before? It sounds like the "godess" of Fractal Painter was probably a pretty good painter to begin with. Now, I think I can achieve the same results working on the computer, rather than running out and picking up $300 worth of art supplies. But maybe classes? I think I'm going to check around CIS and see if there is an "artists" corner – maybe hit them up for ideas for books, etc. And you really like Fractal Painter? I am missing something like that, although everyone raved about Animator Pro, which a friend wants to sell to me. I played with it for a weekend and found the interface very univiting, very unintuitive, the manuals poor, just generally disappointed. Maybe I should give it another shot – It's hard to believe Autodesk publishes both AniPro and 3DS – NIGHT and DAY! Thanks John James
#72510From: John TissavaryDec 19, 1993 5:02 PM
The Fractal Goddess is just that: a full time Fractal texture map person. She's not an animator/modeller. You can get pretty decent images on CD rom, and catalogue them. That way when you run into a material need you can create one with the help of these pre-scanned images and a decent image processing package like Photostyler. Art classes are always a good idea, IMHO. I went to art school, and made a living as a graphic artist (not a good one, though) for a while. My forte, though, is sculpture (marble… pretty in demand these days<g>) and film. These relate pretty well to 3DS, and the interface (computer) is the only thing holding me back as far as modelling complex organic stuff goes. But I'm making progress in that area. One great way to accumulate maps is to take photographs of the object/textures you need (with a camera <g>), scan them and manipulate them as you need for the particular job. John Tissavary (La Luna cie)
#72606From: James TichenorDec 20, 1993 2:01 AM
Thanks John, Most of my maps are photographically based – although I must admit that they're all using the .TGAs and .CEL on the CR-ROM. Hopefully I'm gonna get out this Christmas and get some new stuff to beef the pictures up. I thinking about the art classes, if just for introduction. I've never painted and just sketched for fun. I can see where the sculpture would be handy, but I can also see how it may sometimes be frustration when you know exactly what you want but can't do it with the mouse (if only I could grab that booleened L-sphere). Should I put a "sculpting DID" on my wishlist? Maybe a little advanced <g>… James
#72624From: David StinnettDec 20, 1993 4:31 AM
James, >> I can see where the sculpture would be handy, but I can also see how it may sometimes be frustration when you know exactly what you want but can't do it with the mouse… OUCH! That one struck a nerve in me! PMJI, but you wouldn't believe how frustrating that is. I've just spent the past 2 1/2 weeks or so modeling a fairly complex animal, and on more than one occasion I found myself daydreaming about just going at the monitor with my sculpting tools and finishing the model that way (pushing and pulling single verts in a large mesh can get real tiring after a while). At least its done now, but bump mapping skin texture and wrinkles is comming up with its own set of problems, and animating the thing is going to be a royal pain in the rear (morphing, morphing, and more morphing!). My R4 wishlist is growing day by day! In the end though, being a sculptor does make life easier when building a mesh, especially an organic one! Painting experience is a plus too, not just for painting texture maps, but for lighting and composition of a scene as well. >> Should I put a "sculpting DID" on my wishlist? I'd be just as happy with a block of clay and a good 3d digitizer. (it would probably be much cheaper too.) David
#72698From: James TichenorDec 20, 1993 12:30 PM
So David, Do you think it's worth my while to take classes in painting and maybe even sculpting? I wonder if anyone would have me, as I don't even have a high-school education in art. I mean, we're talking ten year old stuff. I guess I could be considered a "moldable block of clay" – maybe… James
#72716From: David StinnettDec 20, 1993 5:14 PM
James, This is a tricky question, as I have no idea what you personally would get out of any sort of art class. It all depends on the person, what kind of artistic talent they had (I don't think previous "art education" makes a difference one way or another), and what kind of time the person has to spend on it. If you feel uncomfortable about a painting class and would be taking it just to help out with 3ds and other computer work, then I can almost guarantee you would drop it in frustration after the second class. Simply taking a course in painting or sculpture wouldn't be nearly the asset that years of experience actually doing it would be. A photography course on the other hand might not be a bad Idea. I personally have not had much formal education in art, aside from a class in the 7th grade and photo classes in highschool (tons of filmmaking in college, but thats more technical than asthetic). But I've done sculpture and drawing and painting, etc since I was a kid, and I'm making a living doing it now. I don't think I could recommend a painting or sculpture class, unless you have an honest interest in these areas to begin with, but if you have time, you might consider a photography class. Some good books on various photo and art topics couldn't hurt either. Most importantly though, don't forget to leave time for 3ds! (I've just taken a couple of months off to get some work done and put together a demo reel) Also, experamentation is one of the most useful things you can do, especially with materials. Go nuts and try every setting possible with every map you can dig up or create, in every combination, just to see what they do. Look around you and examine real life "materials", how the light interacts with things, note imperfections and irregularities on surfaces, how something as ordinary as dust can have a dramatic effect on how it reflects light…. and so on. Then when it comes time to make materials for a scene, the effect your looking for will be much easier to achieve. I hope this helps you out a little bit. David
#72846From: James TichenorDec 21, 1993 12:56 PM
Hey David, Thanks for the word of wisdom. I've always wanted to have some artist exposure, but maybe now is a bad time. Very busy and all. But your suggestions for playing with 3DS seem to be right on the mark. I've been working steady for 2 1/2 months on it now, and am really getting the hang of everything but the mat editor – and it's not the interface or what everything does, but just the ability to distill a good looking material out of all the possible choices. But you're right about playing – no better way to do it than just doing it! Thanks James
#73581From: Stuart NicholsonDec 29, 1993 11:59 AM
The most useful course I ever did that helped with 3DS, was a Television lighting course which also included basic video camera skills. The lighting and camera techniques took my crappy looking creations to a whole new level. If not doing a course, get a video or a book on lighting and shooting (camera style of course <g>)
#73629From: James TichenorDec 30, 1993 1:27 AM
<<The most useful course I ever did that helped with 3DS, was a Television lighting course which also included basic video camera skills. The lighting and camera techniques took my crappy looking creations to a whole new level. If not doing a course, get a video or a book on lighting and shooting (camera style of course <g>)>> Hey Stuart, Thanks for the info. Actually, I've been lucky enough to work in film for the last ten years or so, and I did work in lighting for about a year. You're right, it helps A LOT. I wouldn't mind going back and working in the camera department though… James